el blog de giltesa https://giltesa.com Sat, 13 Feb 2021 22:15:25 +0000 en-NZ hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.6.2 79349975 Photographic album using ESP32 and GC9A01 round screen https://giltesa.com/en/2021/01/05/photographic-album-using-esp32-and-gc9a01-round-screen https://giltesa.com/en/2021/01/05/photographic-album-using-esp32-and-gc9a01-round-screen#respond Tue, 05 Jan 2021 09:10:11 +0000 https://giltesa.com/?p=21441 I have received some modules from AliExpress and the first thing I needed to do was understand how these works. so I made an example where the code loads all pictures from the MicroSD and show them on the screen. It’s a stupid example but I have needed too many hours because I have had […]

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I have received some modules from AliExpress and the first thing I needed to do was understand how these works. so I made an example where the code loads all pictures from the MicroSD and show them on the screen.

It’s a stupid example but I have needed too many hours because I have had problems to make it work at the same time, because both need the SPI protocol for working. Finally, it was as much easy as how to connect the SCK and MOSI pins at both modules.

The development board is a TTGO T8 V1.8 ESP32-WROVER-B, the screen include the GC9A01 driver.

The development board is not the most I like but it has MicroSD reader, an ESP32 WROVER, and an auto-boot feature. I want to make my own board with these specifications so this development board is perfect for trying everything before making my board.

This is the code of the video:


 

The original example from the library needs the JpegClass, I have needed to modify it a bit because it was made for receiving a file name, but now it is receiving a file directly:


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Game Boy Color USB-C charging kit https://giltesa.com/en/2020/12/17/game-boy-color-usb-c-charging-kit https://giltesa.com/en/2020/12/17/game-boy-color-usb-c-charging-kit#comments Thu, 17 Dec 2020 10:32:18 +0000 https://giltesa.com/?p=20126 After finishing my year of study and getting my graduation in New Zealand I had about 3 months with too much free time on weekdays. Then, I started to see videos on YouTube and I finally saw some videos about the Game Boy Color and how to modify the video console to improve it. One […]

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After finishing my year of study and getting my graduation in New Zealand I had about 3 months with too much free time on weekdays. Then, I started to see videos on YouTube and I finally saw some videos about the Game Boy Color and how to modify the video console to improve it. One of these modification is change the original screen for a IPS screen with backgraund illumination, I will show that in another article. The another typical modification is modifies the way to provider energy to the GBC, that is this article is about.

These videos cover some methods of replacing the AA batteries for using something to allow to charge the GBC. The most popular option is using the TP4056 chip which can charge a battery by USB. The way to implement this chip can be using a module from AliExpress or with a personalized circuit.

It’s this second option that most caught my attention, but I discarded it because it use a MiniUSB connector. Then, I decided to make my own board from scratch.

I was clear about some things from the beginning: I wanted the connector for charging was a USB-C. The PCB could be soldered over the original one to avoid to solder any cable. I also wanted the case needed to be cut the less possible. Then, I designed something like this:

The idea wasn’t bad, but everything was too cramped, and the measurements weren’t 100% correct because I couldn’t get the exactly size of the GBC circuit. I also wanted to put the status LEDs on the original red LED pads.

After arriving to Spain and being bored again, I retook the circuit design. The essence is the same but this time I could take the measurements and make my pcb fit perfect on the original pcb. I also checked all conectors (USB, battery, power pads) are in the correct place.

Thanks to the GBC data sheet, I could remove all unnecessary components on the GBC circuit as resistor, capacitors, etc. That helped me to get more free space and distribute better the components for charging the battery.

Finally, I ordered the manufacturing of the boards. I used this time the JLCPCB company because the cheap stencil service, I wanted to try it!

It was the first time I did a order to this manufacturer of PCBs, and to be honest I don’t have anything to complain. The price is so cheap, the shipping time is so fast, only two weeks! After ordening my boards they contacted me because I did something wrong, so I could fix and sent to them the fixed files.

On the following pictures you can see the PCB with solder paste that I applied with the stencil (the paste was too warm, so it was a bit liquid). With some components on the board. When I was soldering it. And finally when i was trying the board.

Before soldering the new board, I had to remove the unnecessary components, clean the excess of tin and clean the board:

That is how the new board looks like on the original board. It is solder using 6 points: 4 from the original power connector (only for holding strong the new board) and 2 more for GND and VCC. The battery connector is on the top of the board, this allows to connect and disconnect the battery without needing to open the case.

Finally a short video of how it looks like:

 

GitHub: You can access to the whole documentation here:

Game Boy Color USB-C charging kit (Github)

USB-C Charging Kit – Quick Guide (PDF)

 

Changelog:


 

Edit: 2021/01/16

There have been many people interested in the boards.
However, I have ordered the PCBs and components for making 20 units more.


 

Edit: 2021/01/17

This is the version 1.2, I did some not important changes. The new boards are going to be in white color. I may have it ready in February.

 


 

Edit: 2021/01/30

I have received the new boards today, they look like this:


 

Edit: 2021/02/10

All boards from this second pack are already reserved. But, I want to make more as soon as Chinese new years will finish.

Something like this will be the next design. But I would like to change the battery connector to vertical orientation, I haven’t received it yet for creating the footprint, so these pictures show the current one, not the new one.

 

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Adding screen background light on printer DCP-L2520DW https://giltesa.com/en/2020/11/06/adding-screen-background-light-on-printer-dcp-l2520dw https://giltesa.com/en/2020/11/06/adding-screen-background-light-on-printer-dcp-l2520dw#respond Fri, 06 Nov 2020 10:10:37 +0000 https://giltesa.com/?p=21320 I bought this printer many years ago, I don’t remember when. Anyway, I had always been thinking on why this printer doesn’t have any light on the screen. I had also been thinking about put it by myself, and finally, I did it. For putting light on the LCD you just need the following components: […]

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I bought this printer many years ago, I don’t remember when. Anyway, I had always been thinking on why this printer doesn’t have any light on the screen. I had also been thinking about put it by myself, and finally, I did it.

For putting light on the LCD you just need the following components:

  • 5 white LEDs of size 0603.
  • 5 resistors of 120Ω and size 0603.
  • 3 resistors of 0Ω and size 1206 (0805 is ok).
  • 1 NPN transistor, for example a MMBT2222.

After finishing the installation, when you turn on/off the printer, the light will turn on/off as well. Easy!

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Installation of Xecuter SX Lite on Nintendo Switch Lite https://giltesa.com/en/2020/11/02/installation-of-xecuter-sx-lite-on-nintendo-switch-lite https://giltesa.com/en/2020/11/02/installation-of-xecuter-sx-lite-on-nintendo-switch-lite#comments Mon, 02 Nov 2020 12:00:16 +0000 https://giltesa.com/?p=20414 Nintendo Wii was the first video game console I have modified internally to be able to load any software that I wanted. It’s because I used to have portable video game consoles like Game Boy or Nintendo DS and with them you just need a special cartridge to do that. I still remember doing this […]

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Nintendo Wii was the first video game console I have modified internally to be able to load any software that I wanted. It’s because I used to have portable video game consoles like Game Boy or Nintendo DS and with them you just need a special cartridge to do that.

I still remember doing this with the Nintendo Wii was extremely easy, there was only necessary to solder a small microcontroller with 8 legs a few cables. However, now, it has become hard in the last years.

Last month I did the installation to three Nintendo Switch, two of them in Lite version and another the normal one.

I can just say, doing the installation is hard an require a good knowledge at micro-soldering. How I wrote in the previous article about starting to learn how to solder, I can tell you it won’t be enough and you will need good tools and a microscope.

For this installation you need a solder iron with a tip of 1mm or less, good tin with flux or/and a syringe of flux. You also need a microscope to be able to see the capacitors and pads where you need to solder the board with the CPU, maybe a $10 microscope can be enough, you have to know you will need something to see because we are working with micro-soldering. On this picture you can see how small it is:

About the chip, it’s the SX Core and SX Lite (Nintendo Switch and Nintendo Switch Lite, respectively). I think there is only this company available on the market. Because the alternative is to have a video game console with an old firmware with some vulnerability, however this chip can work on any model.

The kit includes the main board where is almost all electronic components, and also one or two flexible PCB you need to solder on the CPU and on the PCB (The model for Lite require 2).

The first flexible PCB you need to solder have to be over the CPU, yes! it’s crazy but this is the place where you have to solder it! There are some capacitors around the centre of the CPU, in two of them are where the flexible PCB is joining with the CPU, so you will need to solder 4 pads like that:

It looks difficult and it is, but in my opinion the difficult is the second part that includes soldering the second flexible PCB (only for the Lite model). Everything is super small and near to other things, the PCB can move super easy and if you want to use the three pads that this board includes to keep on the place, you must solder them well because on they depend you can or not solder the pads on the Nintendo PCB.

I didn’t do on my Nintendo Switch Lite, but I did on another Lite. Soldering the anchor points can help you, yes, but only if you are able to solder well, otherwise you will hate them!

After soldering everything you just need to turn on your video game console, if the led that the main board include is blinking blue and finally it stay green, you did perfect. However, if the colour stay red you did something wrong. Also, if you can see an angry MicroSD on your Nintendo Switch screen, it’s good. You just need to copy the software of the chip in your MicroSD.


You can see the first installation I did on the header of this article. The second one was on a Nintendo Switch, and the third one on another Lite:

 

I was able to do another installation and this time I have put some tin on the flexible PCB. It was much better and easier to put.

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Assembling LED light spinner https://giltesa.com/en/2020/10/30/assembling-led-light-spinner https://giltesa.com/en/2020/10/30/assembling-led-light-spinner#respond Fri, 30 Oct 2020 10:25:04 +0000 https://giltesa.com/?p=21198 If you’re interested in learning how to solder electronics boards, I recommend you buy some kit on internet. You can find a lot of different kits and they’re cheap. I think it’s a good way for learning without breaking anything. Some examples of this can be a Christmas tree, a clock, a robot, etc. I […]

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If you’re interested in learning how to solder electronics boards, I recommend you buy some kit on internet. You can find a lot of different kits and they’re cheap. I think it’s a good way for learning without breaking anything.

Some examples of this can be a Christmas tree, a clock, a robot, etc. I decided to buy a LED light spinner because I had never had one and I wanted it.

This kit include everything you need except the button batteries, so you need will need three CR1620:

I don’t know which model of microcontroller includes de kit, but it’s controlled with the switch button. When you press the switch the lights turn on and off, so I guess the chip is working with interruptions. About the light effects, these change automatically after some seconds because this kit doesn’t include any sensor to know when you are spinning the device.

The kit includes as well a link of the product where you can see on YouTube the steps to make it and some advices to solder it well.

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Replace joystick on Nintendo Switch Lite https://giltesa.com/en/2020/10/13/replace-joystick-on-nintendo-switch-lite https://giltesa.com/en/2020/10/13/replace-joystick-on-nintendo-switch-lite#comments Tue, 13 Oct 2020 09:30:27 +0000 https://giltesa.com/?p=20412 How I wrote in the last post about Nintendo Switch, this device was cheap because the left joystick was broken and the owner didn’t know how to fix or maybe didn’t want to pay the fix. Anyway, fixing it is super easy. First, we need to have some tools how a tri-wing screwdriver and a […]

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How I wrote in the last post about Nintendo Switch, this device was cheap because the left joystick was broken and the owner didn’t know how to fix or maybe didn’t want to pay the fix. Anyway, fixing it is super easy.

First, we need to have some tools how a tri-wing screwdriver and a star screwdriver. Both need to be of small size. If we don’t have it maybe it may be better to buy a kit of joysticks and tools, it’s not too much expensive, only a few euros more and this include the tools to open the case plastic and not to broken it.

I didn’t need to buy any tool so the link is a search on AliExpress, however the joysticks are the same that I bought, and I think they are original.

For opening the Nintendo Switch Lite we need to take out 2 screws on the top, 2 screws on the bottom and also 4 screws on the back. After that we need to use the plastic tools to separate the front and back case, you can use the holes of the speakers to put the tools, take your time and try to do it as much well as you can, if you do fast and incorrectly you can damage the plastic case.

When you have the video console open, you can take off the rest of the screws. In my case I needed to replace the left joystick which is easy to disassemble than the right one. You should take care with the flexible cables because they are fragile and one of them is in the middle and annoy us for putting and closing the back case.

I don’t have more pictures, anyway you can get more information on YouTube, for example:

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